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This paper describes the use of kernel methods to classify tissue samples using near-infrared spectra in order to discriminate between samples, either with or without elastane. The aim of this real-world study is to identify an alternative method to classify textile products using near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy in order to improve quality control, and to aid in the detection of counterfeit garments. The principles behind support vector machines (SVMs), of which the main idea is to linearly separate data, are recalled progressively in order to demonstrate that the decision function obtained is a global optimal solution of a quadratic programming problem. Generally, this solution is found after embedding data in another space F with a higher dimension by the means of a specific non-linear function, the kernel. For a selected kernel, one of the most important and difficult subjects concerning SVM is the determination of tuning …