Muscle oximetry in sports science: An updated systematic review

S Perrey, V Quaresima, M Ferrari - Sports Medicine, 2024 - Springer
Background In the last 5 years since our last systematic review, a significant number of
articles have been published on the technical aspects of muscle near-infrared spectroscopy …

Tests and procedures for measuring endurance, strength, and power in climbing—a mini-review

N Stien, AH Saeterbakken, V Andersen - Frontiers in sports and …, 2022 - frontiersin.org
The interest in climbing is rapidly growing among professional and recreational athletes and
will for the first time be included in the 2021 Tokyo Olympics. The sport has also gained …

Comparison of climbing-specific strength and endurance between lead and boulder climbers

N Stien, AH Saeterbakken, E Hermans, VA Vereide… - PloS one, 2019 - journals.plos.org
Albeit differences in climbing-specific strength of the forearms have been demonstrated
between lead and boulder climbers, little is known about the potential differences in force …

An all-out test to determine finger flexor critical force in rock climbers

D Giles, C Hartley, H Maslen… - … Journal of Sports …, 2021 - journals.humankinetics.com
Purpose: The fatigue resistance of the finger flexors is known to be a key determinant of
climbing performance. This study set out to establish the association between the single all …

Strength training in climbing: a systematic review

K Langer, C Simon, J Wiemeyer - The Journal of Strength & …, 2023 - journals.lww.com
Abstract Langer, K, Simon, C, and Wiemeyer, J. Strength training in climbing: A systematic
review. J Strength Cond Res 37 (3): 751–767, 2023—The aim of this review was to provide …

The connection between resistance training, climbing performance, and injury prevention

AH Saeterbakken, N Stien, H Pedersen, K Langer… - Sports Medicine …, 2024 - Springer
Background Climbing is an intricate sport composed of various disciplines, holds, styles,
distances between holds, and levels of difficulty. In highly skilled climbers the potential for …

Reliability of near-infrared spectroscopy for measuring intermittent handgrip contractions in sport climbers

J Baláš, J Kodejška, D Krupková… - The Journal of …, 2018 - journals.lww.com
Baláš, J, Kodejška, J, Krupková, D, Hannsmann, J, and Fryer, S. Reliability of near-infrared
spectroscopy for measuring intermittent handgrip contractions in sport climbers. J Strength …

Physical performance testing in climbing—a systematic review

K Langer, C Simon, J Wiemeyer - Frontiers in Sports and Active Living, 2023 - frontiersin.org
Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, the corresponding diagnostics are gaining in
importance for both science and practice. This review aims to give an overview of the quality …

The determination of finger-flexor critical force in rock climbers

D Giles, JB Chidley, N Taylor… - … journal of sports …, 2019 - journals.humankinetics.com
Purpose: To determine if the mathematical model used for the estimation of critical force (CF)
and the energy store component W′ are applicable to intermittent isometric muscle actions …

New Zealand blackcurrant extract enhances muscle oxygenation during repeated intermittent forearm muscle contractions in advanced and elite rock climbers

S Fryer, D Giles, E Bird, K Stone… - European journal of …, 2021 - Taylor & Francis
Abstract Anthocyanin-rich New Zealand blackcurrant (NZBC) may improve forearm muscle
oxygenation and enhance performance in high-level rock climbers. As such, using a double …