Surface gravity wave breaking occurs along coastlines in complex spatial and temporal
patterns that significantly impact erosion, scalar transport, and flooding. Numerical models …

Along coastlines, surface gravity wave breaking occurs in complex spatial and temporal
patterns that significantly impact erosion, scalar transport, and flooding. Numerical models …

Global navigation satellite systems (GNSSs) and modern motion-sensor packages allow the
measurement of ocean surface waves with low-cost drifters. Drifting along or across current …

The Wirewalker (WW) ocean-wave-powered vertical profiling system allows the collection of
high-resolution oceanographic data due to its rapid profiling, hydrodynamically quiet …

Surface wave instrumentation floats with tracking were deployed by helicopter ahead of five
large storms off the Oregon coast. The buoys drifted freely with the wave motions, surface …

Expendable microSWIFT buoys have been developed and tested for measuring ocean
surface waves. Wave spectra are calculated via onboard processing of GPS velocities …

Directional spreading of ocean waves plays an important role in various aspects of ocean
engineering, such as wave-induced loads, nonlinear wave evolution, and wave breaking …

As wind‐generated waves propagate from the deep ocean toward the shore, the decreasing
depths begin to influence near‐bottom orbital motions, modifying the wave kinematics …

Surface-following buoys are widely used to collect routine ocean wave measurements.
While accelerometer and tilt sensors have been used for decades to measure the wave …

Laboratory and field measurements of suspended sediment in the nearshore suggest that
fluid accelerations are an important factor in sediment transport by oscillatory waves. Here …