Wave modelling–the state of the art

L Cavaleri, JHGM Alves, F Ardhuin, A Babanin… - Progress in …, 2007 - Elsevier
This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of
the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent …

SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters

M Zijlema, G Stelling, P Smit - Coastal Engineering, 2011 - Elsevier
A computational procedure has been developed for simulating non-hydrostatic, free-surface,
rotational flows in one and two horizontal dimensions. Its implementation in the publicly …

[图书][B] Waves in oceanic and coastal waters

LH Holthuijsen - 2010 - books.google.com
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of
wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands …

Wave modelling in coastal and inner seas

L Cavaleri, S Abdalla, A Benetazzo, L Bertotti… - Progress in …, 2018 - Elsevier
In the long term development of the research on wind waves and their modelling, in
particular of the inner and coastal seas, the present situation is framed with a short look at …

On the developments of spectral wave models: numerics and parameterizations for the coastal ocean

A Roland, F Ardhuin - Ocean Dynamics, 2014 - Springer
The development of numerical wave models for coastal applications, including coupling with
ocean circulation models, has spurred an ongoing effort on theoretical foundations …

Non-hydrostatic modeling of surf zone wave dynamics

P Smit, T Janssen, L Holthuijsen, J Smith - Coastal Engineering, 2014 - Elsevier
Non-hydrostatic models such as Surface WAves till SHore (SWASH) resolve many of the
relevant physics in coastal wave propagation such as dispersion, shoaling, refraction …

Validation of a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model with laboratory non-breaking experiments

C Raoult, M Benoit, ML Yates - Coastal Engineering, 2016 - Elsevier
With the objective of modeling coastal wave dynamics taking into account nonlinear and
dispersive effects, a highly accurate nonlinear potential flow model was developed. The …

Modeling of nonlinear wave propagation over fringing reefs

A Sheremet, JM Kaihatu, SF Su, ER Smith, JM Smith - Coastal Engineering, 2011 - Elsevier
The applicability of existing nonlinear (triad) spectral models for steep slopes (0.1–0.2)
characteristic of reef environments was investigated, using both deterministic (phase …

New Perspectives for Nonlinear Depth‐Inversion of the Nearshore Using Boussinesq Theory

K Martins, P Bonneton, O de Viron… - Geophysical …, 2023 - Wiley Online Library
Accurately mapping the evolving bathymetry under energetic wave breaking is challenging,
yet critical for improving our understanding of sandy beach morphodynamics. Though …

High-resolution wave and hydrodynamics modelling in coastal areas: operational applications for coastal planning, decision support and assessment

AG Samaras, MG Gaeta, AM Miquel… - Natural hazards and …, 2016 - nhess.copernicus.org
Numerical modelling has become an essential component of today's coastal planning,
decision support and risk assessment. High-resolution modelling offers an extensive range …