Phase-decoupled refraction–diffraction for spectral wave models

LH Holthuijsen, A Herman, N Booij - Coastal Engineering, 2003 - Elsevier
Conventional spectral wave models, which are used to determine wave conditions in coastal
regions, can account for all relevant processes of generation, dissipation and propagation …

Wave transformation in the nearshore zone: a review

L Hamm, PA Madsen, DH Peregrine - Coastal Engineering, 1993 - Elsevier
This paper reviews works related to nearshore wave propagation with an emphasis on
several aspects related to coastal morphodynamic modelling including randomness and …

A comparison of two spectral wave models in the Southern California Bight

WC O'Reilly, RT Guza - Coastal Engineering, 1993 - Elsevier
Two models, a spectral refraction model (Longuet-Higgins) and a parabolic equation
method (PEM) refraction-diffraction model (Kirby), are used to simulate the propagation of …

Solution of the mild-slope wave problem by iteration

VG Panchang, BR Pearce, G Wei… - Applied Ocean …, 1991 - Elsevier
Iterative solution procedures for solving the complete mild-slope wave (combined refraction-
diffraction) equation are developed. Existing models for investigating wave refraction …

Excitation of seiche observed in a small harbor

M Okihiro, RT Guza, RJ Seymour - Journal of Geophysical …, 1993 - Wiley Online Library
Seiche measured within a small (0.6 by 0.6 km), shallow (12‐m depth) harbor is dominated
by oscillations in several narrow infragravity frequency bands between approximately 10− 3 …

Extended linear refraction-diffraction model

CN Chandrasekera, KF Cheung - Journal of waterway, port, coastal …, 1997 - ascelibrary.org
An alternative derivation of the extended refraction-diffraction equation is presented. The
bottom curvature and slope-squared terms ignored in the mild-slope equation are included …

[HTML][HTML] Propagation of waves over a rugged topography

MS Afzal, L Kumar - Journal of Ocean Engineering and Science, 2022 - Elsevier
The propagation of waves in shallow waters is affected by the bottom topography unlike
deep water waves of the coastal environment. Due to the interaction of the wave with bed …

Spectral model for wave transformation and breaking over irregular bathymetry

A Chawla, HT Özkan-Haller, JT Kirby - Journal of waterway, port …, 1998 - ascelibrary.org
A numerical model is presented that predicts the evolution of a directional spectral sea state
over a varying bathymetry using superposition of results of a parabolic monochromatic wave …

Numerical simulation of nonlinear wave propagation from deep to shallow water

PB Zheng, ZH Zhang, HS Zhang, XY Zhao - Journal of Marine Science …, 2023 - mdpi.com
Herein, a numerical model is proposed to simulate the nonlinear wave propagation from
deep to shallow water and wave breaking phenomena. In the numerical model, the …

Coastal Flooding Assessment Induced by Barometric Pressure, Wind-Generated Waves and Tidal-Induced Oscillations: Kaštela Bay Real-Time Early Warning System …

Ž Nikolić, V Srzić, I Lovrinović, T Perković, P Šolić… - Applied Sciences, 2022 - mdpi.com
Our work presents a reliable procedure to obtain real-time assessment of the sea water
elevation at the Kaštela Bay site to ensure the a priori warning in the case of expected …