In this paper, the development of a class of depth-integrated, phase-resolving models for
surface wave propagation, known as Boussinesq-type models (BTMs), is reviewed. This …

Periodic undulating topographies (such as sandwaves and sandbars) are very common in
coastal and estuarine areas. Normally incident water surface waves propagating from open …

Focused wave groups are traveling waves characterized by extremely-large transient wave
amplitudes and very short durations. These waves usually cause serious damage to …

We present a high-order adaptive time-stepping TVD solver for the fully nonlinear
Boussinesq model of Chen (2006), extended to include moving reference level as in …

A set of model equations for water–wave propagation is derived by piecewise integration of
the primitive equations of motion through two arbitrary layers. Within each layer, an …

We derive fully nonlinear, weakly dispersive model equations for propagation of surface
gravity waves in a shallow, homogeneous ocean of variable depth on the surface of a …

Abstract Gao et al.(2021b) attempted for the first time to use Bragg reflection to mitigate the
harbor resonance induced by regular long waves and bi-chromatic short wave groups …

The shallow water equations are a commonly accepted governing system for tsunami
propagation and inundation. In their most generally valid form, the equations are a set of …

Publisher Summary This chapter discusses the development of Boussinesq models for
application to coastal hydrodynamics problems as it reached a level of maturity. The model …

The accuracy of using high-order Boussinesq-type models as compared to the typical order
models is examined in this paper. The high-order model used is the two-layer model of …