Progresses in the research of oceanic freak waves: Mechanism, modeling, and forecasting
In the 1990s, oceanographers realized that the freak waves posed realistic threats to
offshore and marine engineering. Since then, tremendous efforts from both academia and …
offshore and marine engineering. Since then, tremendous efforts from both academia and …
Rogue waves in the sea: observations, physics, and mathematics
Rogue waves are anomalously high waves that may suddenly form on the sea surface. At
the dawn of the 21st century, they attracted the interest of researchers, from oceanographers …
the dawn of the 21st century, they attracted the interest of researchers, from oceanographers …
Why rogue waves occur atop abrupt depth transitions
Abrupt depth transitions (ADTs) have recently been identified as potential causes of
'rogue'ocean waves. When stationary and (close-to-) normally distributed waves travel into …
'rogue'ocean waves. When stationary and (close-to-) normally distributed waves travel into …
Non-homogeneous analysis of rogue wave probability evolution over a shoal
Non-equilibrium evolution of wave fields, as occurring over sudden bathymetry variations,
can produce rogue seas with anomalous wave statistics. We handle this process by …
can produce rogue seas with anomalous wave statistics. We handle this process by …
Enhanced extreme wave statistics of irregular waves due to accelerating following current over a submerged bar
We present experimental results of irregular long-crested waves propagating over a
submerged trapezoidal bar with the presence of a background current in a wave flume. We …
submerged trapezoidal bar with the presence of a background current in a wave flume. We …
Kinematics of nonlinear waves over variable bathymetry. Part I: Numerical modelling, verification and validation
Fluid particle kinematics due to wave motion (ie orbital velocities and accelerations) at and
beneath the free surface is involved in many coastal and ocean engineering applications, eg …
beneath the free surface is involved in many coastal and ocean engineering applications, eg …
Statistical distributions of free surface elevation and wave height for out-of-equilibrium sea-states provoked by strong depth variations
As unidirectional irregular wave trains propagate over a steep shoal, the sea-state becomes
out-of-equilibrium and is continuously affected by the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) over …
out-of-equilibrium and is continuously affected by the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) over …
Extreme wave statistics of surface elevation and velocity field of gravity waves over a two-dimensional bathymetry
C Lawrence, K Trulsen, O Gramstad - Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 2022 - cambridge.org
This paper presents the effects of two-dimensional bathymetry on the evolution of skewness
and kurtosis of the surface elevation and velocity field in long-crested irregular waves …
and kurtosis of the surface elevation and velocity field in long-crested irregular waves …
On the behavior of higher harmonics in the evolution of nonlinear water waves in the presence of abrupt depth transitions
The presence of abrupt depth transitions might trigger strong nonlinear effects on
propagating water waves near coastal regions. In this study, the dynamics of nonlinear …
propagating water waves near coastal regions. In this study, the dynamics of nonlinear …
[HTML][HTML] Vertically averaged and moment equations: New derivation, efficient numerical solution and comparison with other physical approximations for modeling non …
Efficient modeling of flow physics is a prerequisite for a reliable computation of free-surface
environmental flows. Non-hydrostatic flows are often present in shallow water environments …
environmental flows. Non-hydrostatic flows are often present in shallow water environments …