Trends in research on morphologic changes on beaches and foredunes on sandy shores
are identified from the 1960s to the present. Research during this period evolved from early …

Detailed knowledge of nearshore topography and bathymetry is required for a wide variety
of purposes, including ecosystem protection, coastal management, and flood and erosion …

Abstract On February 15, 1941, a storm caused one of the major natural disasters in the
Iberian Peninsula in the past century. The storm made landfall in the north of Portugal …

Empirical models of wave runup are commonly derived from open beaches, but their
applicability in fetch-limited, sheltered environments are yet to be properly assessed. Based …

Increases in human development of the coastal zone, sea level rise and intensity of coastal
storms will test the resilience of coastal systems. An integrated approach is needed to …

Sandy beaches in estuaries and bays are distinct from open-coast beaches in that they are
partially or fully sheltered from ocean waves. The sheltering increases the importance of …

The design, implementation and demonstration of a novel and generic computational
forecast framework for multi-scale prediction of extreme sea levels and associated flooding …

Estuarine beaches often lack well developed surf zones; incident waves break and convert
directly to swash on the steep foreshore, resulting in greater influence of the swash zone in …

Circulation patterns and physical regimes play a major role in estuarine ecosystems.
Understanding how different drivers, like climate change, may affect the estuarine dynamics …

A field campaign was carried out at a sheltered sandy beach with the aim of gaining new
insights into the driving processes behind sheltered beach morphodynamics. Detailed …