▪ Abstract Recent studies of the morphodynamics of the coastal region are reviewed.
Emphasis is given to idealized models that consider a morphological pattern in isolation …

A time‐dependent cross‐shore sediment transport model in the surf and swash zones on
beaches is developed to predict both beach accretion and erosion under the assumptions of …

Water wave breaking is of considerable importance in the transfer of momentum, and in
other transfers, between the atmosphere and oceans. Typically breaking occurs on deep …

To investigate surf zone hydrodynamics in a directional random wave environment, a
numerical simulation of the SandyDuck experiment was performed for 2 October 1997 using …

A curvilinear version of the nearshore circulation model SHORECIRC is developed based
on the quasi-3D nearshore circulation equations derived by Putrevu and Svendsen [Eur. J …

The present state of research into and understanding of shear waves is appraised. In this
paper these motions, which result from an instability of an alongshore, wave‐driven current …

This note presents a new method for high resolution beach profiling in small and medium
scale laboratory wave flumes. The combined use of laser distance sensors for elevation (z) …

In order to investigate surf zone hydrodynamics through two-dimensional numerical
simulations of nearshore circulation under random wave environment, a nearshore …

Water wave breaking is of considerable importance in the transfer of momentum from the
waves to currents. Near shore lines most of the water motions are dominated by breaking …

A mode-splitting method is applied to the quasi-3D nearshore circulation equations in
generalized curvilinear coordinates. The gravity wave mode and the vorticity wave mode of …