Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …
Modeling the morphodynamics of coastal responses to extreme events: What shape are we in?
This review focuses on recent advances in process-based numerical models of the impact of
extreme storms on sandy coasts. Driven by larger-scale models of meteorology and …
extreme storms on sandy coasts. Driven by larger-scale models of meteorology and …
Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands
A new nearshore numerical model approach to assess the natural coastal response during
time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and …
time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and …
The influence of coral reefs and climate change on wave‐driven flooding of tropical coastlines
E Quataert, C Storlazzi, A Van Rooijen… - Geophysical …, 2015 - Wiley Online Library
A numerical model, XBeach, calibrated and validated on field data collected at Roi‐Namur
Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands, was used to examine the …
Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands, was used to examine the …
Two-dimensional time dependent hurricane overwash and erosion modeling at Santa Rosa Island
A 2DH numerical, model which is capable of computing nearshore circulation and
morphodynamics, including dune erosion, breaching and overwash, is used to simulate …
morphodynamics, including dune erosion, breaching and overwash, is used to simulate …
[HTML][HTML] Improving predictions of swash dynamics in XBeach: The role of groupiness and incident-band runup
In predicting storm impacts on sandy coasts, possibly with structures, accurate runup and
overtopping simulation is an important aspect. Recent investigations (Stockdon et al., 2014; …
overtopping simulation is an important aspect. Recent investigations (Stockdon et al., 2014; …
Morphodynamic modeling of an embayed beach under wave group forcing
AJHM Reniers, JA Roelvink… - Journal of Geophysical …, 2004 - Wiley Online Library
The morphodynamic response of the nearshore zone of an embayed beach induced by
wave groups is examined with a numerical model. The model utilizes the nonlinear shallow …
wave groups is examined with a numerical model. The model utilizes the nonlinear shallow …
The dynamics of infragravity wave transformation over a fringing reef
A 3 week field study was conducted to investigate the dynamics of low‐frequency
(infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Short …
(infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Short …
Modeling compound flooding in coastal systems using a computationally efficient reduced-physics solver: Including fluvial, pluvial, tidal, wind-and wave-driven …
SFINCS, a new reduced-physics solver to compute compound flooding in coastal systems
due to fluvial, pluvial, tidal, wind-and wave-driven processes in a computationally efficient …
due to fluvial, pluvial, tidal, wind-and wave-driven processes in a computationally efficient …
Rip currents
RA Dalrymple, JH MacMahan… - Annual Review of …, 2011 - annualreviews.org
Rip currents are fast-moving flows, traveling “outward almost at right angles to the shore”,
creating a natural hazard for beachgoers, who suddenly find themselves in deep water …
creating a natural hazard for beachgoers, who suddenly find themselves in deep water …