We investigate the validity and robustness of the Barthelemy et al.(2018, https://doi.
org/10.1017/jfm. 2018.93) wave‐breaking onset prediction framework for surface gravity …

Coastal wave propagation and transformation are complicated due to the significant
variations of water depth and irregular coastlines, which are typically present at the …

Abrupt depth transitions (ADTs) have been shown to induce the release of bound waves into
free waves, which results in spatially inhomogeneous wave fields atop ADTs. Herein, we …

A new method is proposed for simulating the energy dissipation resulting from depth-limited
wave breaking, in combination with a universal breaking onset criterion, in two-dimensional …

Two methods to treat wave breaking in the framework of the Hamiltonian formulation of free-
surface potential flow are presented, tested, and validated. The first is an extension of …

Free surface waves were generated by a submerged moving body in a towing tank using a
numerical and a physical towing tank. Unlike a circulating water channel, a towing tank …

The modeling of wave-breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully
nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential …

A large body of work has been devoted to the accurate detection and simulation of wave
breaking in coastal areas. It is a key process for a wide range of engineering activities and …

Numerical experiments are conducted to simulate Gaussian-shaped waves shoaling over a
uniformly sloping bed. A higher-order pseudo-spectral method is implemented to solve the …

This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow
theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of …