Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …

This review focuses on recent advances in process-based numerical models of the impact of
extreme storms on sandy coasts. Driven by larger-scale models of meteorology and …

This book is intended as a useful handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas
of Physical Oceanography, Marine Geology, Coastal Geomorphology and Coastal …

The world's coastlines represent a myriad of dynamic and constantly changing
environments. Heavily settled and intensely used areas, they are of enormous importance to …

Loose Boundary Hydraulics Page 1 LOOSE BOUNDARY HYDRAULICS Page 2 Page 3
Loose Boundary Hydraulics ARVED 1. RAUDKIVI University of Auckland, N. Z AA BALKEMA/ROTIERDAM/BROOKFIELDI …

A 2DH numerical, model which is capable of computing nearshore circulation and
morphodynamics, including dune erosion, breaching and overwash, is used to simulate …

Waves, currents, and the location of the seafloor were measured on a barred beach for
about 2 months at nine locations along a cross‐shore transect extending 255 m from 1 to 4 …

Shoreline location and incident wave energy, observed for almost 5 years at Torrey Pines
beach, show seasonal fluctuations characteristic of southern California beaches. The …

This paper reviews the state-of-the-art as perceived by the Wave-Current Interaction (WCI)
group which forms part of the MAST G6M Coastal Morphodynamics project, and includes …

Transport of participate material across continental shelves is well demonstrated by the
distributions on the seabed and in the water column of geological, chemical, or biological …