Coral reefs are diverse ecosystems that support millions of people worldwide by providing
coastal protection from waves. Climate change and human impacts are leading to degraded …

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic
wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones …

Probabilistic estimates for coastal storm erosion volumes are increasingly being sought by
contemporary risk based coastal zone management frameworks. Such estimates can be …

The performances of phase-averaged parametric nearshore wave transformation models
depend significantly on a reliable estimate of the wave breaker index γ (the breaker height …

This paper describes a novel image processing technique that detects wave breaking and
tracks waves in the surf zone using machine learning procedures. Using time-space images …

Wave crests of unexpected height and steepness pose a danger to activities at sea, and
long-term field measurements provide important clues for understanding the environmental …

Waves propagating on sandy beaches are naturally affected by tides. A better
understanding of tide-modulated wave characteristics and breaking regimes in the intertidal …

Understanding of breaking and broken waves is key for the prediction of nearshore
sediment transport and coastal hazards, however the difficulty of obtaining measurements of …

The cross‐shore evolution of individual wave celerity is investigated using two high‐
resolution laboratory experiments on bichromatic waves. Individual waves are tracked …

A detailed understanding of the behaviour of waves in the nearshore is essential for coastal
engineers as these waves cause beach erosion, coastal flooding and damage to coastal …