Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts

X Bertin, A de Bakker, AP Van Dongeren, G Coco… - Earth-Science …, 2018 - Elsevier
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …

Extreme value statistics for wave run-up on a natural beach

RA Holman - Coastal Engineering, 1986 - Elsevier
Statistics of wave run-up maxima have been calculated for 149 35-minutes data runs from a
natural beach. During the experiment incident wave height varied from 0.4 to 4.0 m, incident …

Random wave runup height on gentle slope

H Mase - Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean …, 1989 - ascelibrary.org
An extensive series of labroatory tests were conducted and these tests led to the
development of a formula to predict runup elevation of random waves on gentle, smooth and …

An analytical model to predict dune erosion due to wave impact

M Larson, L Erikson, H Hanson - Coastal Engineering, 2004 - Elsevier
An analytical model is developed to calculate recession distance and eroded volume for
coastal dunes during severe storms. The transport relationship used in the model is based …

Wave transformation in the nearshore zone: a review

L Hamm, PA Madsen, DH Peregrine - Coastal Engineering, 1993 - Elsevier
This paper reviews works related to nearshore wave propagation with an emphasis on
several aspects related to coastal morphodynamic modelling including randomness and …

Observations of swash under highly dissipative conditions

BG Ruessink, MG Kleinhans… - Journal of …, 1998 - Wiley Online Library
Video measurements of swash were made at the low‐sloping beach of the multiple bar
system at Terschelling, Netherlands. The majority of the measurements were conducted …

Combined infragravity wave and sea‐swell runup over fringing reefs by super typhoon Haiyan

T Shimozono, Y Tajima, AB Kennedy… - Journal of …, 2015 - Wiley Online Library
Super typhoon Haiyan struck the Philippines on 8 November 2013, marking one of the
strongest typhoons at landfall in recorded history. Extreme storm waves attacked the Pacific …

Assessment of runup predictions by empirical models on non-truncated beaches on the south-east Australian coast

AL Atkinson, HE Power, T Moura, T Hammond… - Coastal …, 2017 - Elsevier
This paper assesses the accuracy of 11 existing runup models against field data collected
under moderate wave conditions from 11 non-truncated beaches in New South Wales and …

Wave runup and overtopping at seawalls built on land and in very shallow water

H Mase, T Tamada, T Yasuda, TS Hedges… - Journal of waterway …, 2013 - ascelibrary.org
The current study proposes prediction formulas both for random wave runup and mean
overtopping discharge at seawalls constructed on land or in very shallow water. Although …

CMS-Wave: A nearshore spectral wave processes model for coastal inlets and navigation projects

L Lin, Z Demirbilek, H Mase, F Yamada, J Zheng - 2008 - erdc-library.erdc.dren.mil
The Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) of the US Army Engineer Research and
Development Center, Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory, in collaboration with two …