The dominant hydrodynamic forcing and resulting sediment transport mechanisms in the
swash zone are reviewed, combined with a discussion of future measurement and …

The morphological behaviour of the coastline is important for a great number of reasons.
Erosion and accretion of the shoreline in response to dynamic wave conditions are functions …

Follet's Island (FI) is a sediment-starved barrier island located on the Upper Texas Coast; a
stretch of coastline along the Gulf of Mexico that experiences on average four hurricanes …

The role of the swash zone in influencing the whole nearshore dynamics is reviewed with a
focus on the interaction between surf and swash zone processes. Local and global …

Wave-induced overwash of sand dunes may cause rapid profile changes and possible dune
destruction, thus increasing the flood risk landward of dunes. Accurate modeling of the wave …

An effort has been made to improve quantitative understanding of beach morphology and
stone structural damage progression and to develop a simple and robust model that is …

The majority of the world shoreline is experiencing some form of erosion, which will become
more serious if the mean sea level rise accelerates because of the greenhouse effect. The …

As unidirectional irregular wave trains propagate over a steep shoal, the sea-state becomes
out-of-equilibrium and is continuously affected by the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) over …

Waveforms described by the second-order Stokes-type approximations are prone to display
anomalous troughs with spurious negative crests. The systemic occurrence of such …

The freak wave, alternatively referred to as the monster wave or rogue wave, represents one
of the most dangerous waves in the domain of ocean engineering. This kind of wave is …