Stokes drift

TS van den Bremer, Ø Breivik - … transactions of the …, 2018 - royalsocietypublishing.org
During its periodic motion, a particle floating at the free surface of a water wave experiences
a net drift velocity in the direction of wave propagation, known as the Stokes drift (Stokes …

Requirements for a coastal hazards observing system

J Benveniste, A Cazenave, S Vignudelli… - Frontiers in Marine …, 2019 - frontiersin.org
Coastal zones are highly dynamical systems affected by a variety of natural and
anthropogenic forcing factors that include sea level rise, extreme events, local oceanic and …

OpenDrift v1. 0: a generic framework for trajectory modelling

KF Dagestad, J Röhrs, Ø Breivik… - Geoscientific Model …, 2018 - gmd.copernicus.org
OpenDrift is an open-source Python-based framework for Lagrangian particle modelling
under development at the Norwegian Meteorological Institute with contributions from the …

Wave modelling in coastal and inner seas

L Cavaleri, S Abdalla, A Benetazzo, L Bertotti… - Progress in …, 2018 - Elsevier
In the long term development of the research on wind waves and their modelling, in
particular of the inner and coastal seas, the present situation is framed with a short look at …

[HTML][HTML] A Digital Twin modelling framework for the assessment of seagrass Nature Based Solutions against storm surges

UPA Pillai, N Pinardi, J Alessandri, I Federico… - Science of the Total …, 2022 - Elsevier
In this paper we demonstrate a novel framework for assessing nature-based solutions
(NBSs) in coastal zones using a new suite of numerical models that provide a virtual …

Surface currents in operational oceanography: Key applications, mechanisms, and methods

J Röhrs, G Sutherland, G Jeans… - Journal of …, 2023 - Taylor & Francis
This paper reviews physical mechanisms, observation techniques and modelling
approaches dealing with surface currents on short time scales (hours to days) relevant for …

Towards a pan-European coastal flood awareness system: Skill of extreme sea-level forecasts from the Copernicus Marine Service

M Irazoqui Apecechea, A Melet… - Frontiers in Marine …, 2023 - frontiersin.org
European coasts are regularly exposed to severe storms that trigger extreme water-level
conditions, leading to coastal flooding and erosion. Early Warning Systems (EWS) are …

Towards comprehensive observing and modeling systems for monitoring and predicting regional to coastal sea level

RM Ponte, M Carson, M Cirano… - Frontiers in Marine …, 2019 - frontiersin.org
A major challenge for managing impacts and implementing effective mitigation measures
and adaptation strategies for coastal zones affected by future sea level (SL) rise is our …

Synergies in operational oceanography: the intrinsic need for sustained ocean observations

F Davidson, A Alvera-Azcarate, A Barth… - Frontiers in Marine …, 2019 - frontiersin.org
Operational oceanography can be described as the provision of routine oceanographic
information needed for decision-making purposes. It is dependent upon sustained research …

Ocean‐wave‐atmosphere interaction processes in a fully coupled modeling system

L Wu, Ø Breivik, A Rutgersson - Journal of Advances in …, 2019 - Wiley Online Library
A high‐resolution coupled ocean‐wave‐atmosphere model (Uppsala University Coupled
model, UU‐CM) of the Baltic Sea and the North Sea with improved representation of ocean …