This review highlights the important role of the depth‐averaged sediment concentration
(DASC) to understand the formation of a number of coastal morphodynamic features that …

Wave-dominated sandy beaches are highly valued by societies and are amongst the world's
most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited …

Breaker bars in the surf zone of sandy beaches generally evolve between straight bars
parallel to the shore and meandering crescentic bars associated with intense (dangerous) …

We use a nonlinear morphodynamic model to demonstrate that time‐varying forcing, in
particular the time‐varying angle of wave incidence, is crucial to the development of rip …

This paper describes the conditions for initiation and maintenance of secondary currents in
open channel flows. By analyzing the Reynolds equation in the wall‐normal and wall …

Accretionary downstate beach sequence is a key element of observed nearshore
morphological variability along sandy coasts. We present and analyze the first numerical …

Nearshore sandbars are often characterized by three-dimensional bed patterns. To analyze
the influence of wave direction on the morphological response of a double sandbar system …

This paper focuses on the optimal location for dumping nourished sand on a barred
coastline. This is done by investigating the short-term behavior of the cross-shore …

This paper presents a numerical investigation of multiple identical swash events to study the
swash–swash interaction processes and their impacts on beachface evolution. The …

We use a nonlinear morphodynamic model to demonstrate that the presence of a single
persistent offshore bathymetric anomaly strongly affects the formation, nonlinear evolution …