Coral reefs can provide significant coastal protection benefits to people and property. Here
we show that the annual expected damages from flooding would double, and costs from …

The purpose of memory is to guide current and future behavior based on previous
experiences. Part of this process involves either discriminating between or generalizing …

The analysis of the water wave breaking phenomenon has been on-going for almost 150
years, and many research papers have been published approximating both the local …

The nearshore wave action at many barrier reefs or reef atolls can generate wave setup and
drive a 2DH reef-lagoon-channel circulation. Previous laboratory studies on such reef …

Wave Transformation and Wave-Driven Flow across a Steep Coral Reef in: Journal of
Physical Oceanography Volume 43 Issue 7 (2013) Jump to Content Jump to Main …

Coastal defence structures are playing a vital role in protecting coastal communities from
extreme climatic conditions and flooding. With climate change and sea-level rise in the next …

This study presents an empirical parameterization of wave front slope angle used in the
characterization of shoaling and breaking waves in nearshore environment. A large amount …

The effects of water level variations on breaking wave setup over fringing reefs are assessed
using field measurements obtained at three study sites in the Republic of the Marshall …

The accurate prediction of extreme wave run-up is important for effective coastal
engineering design and coastal hazard management. While run-up processes on open …

Wave‐driven water level variability (and runup at the shoreline) is a significant cause of
coastal flooding induced by storms. Wave runup is challenging to predict, particularly along …