[HTML][HTML] Improving predictions of swash dynamics in XBeach: The role of groupiness and incident-band runup
In predicting storm impacts on sandy coasts, possibly with structures, accurate runup and
overtopping simulation is an important aspect. Recent investigations (Stockdon et al., 2014; …
overtopping simulation is an important aspect. Recent investigations (Stockdon et al., 2014; …
Role of wave forcing, storms and NAO in outer bar dynamics on a high-energy, macro-tidal beach
Outer sand bar dynamics on a high-energy macro-tidal beach were investigated using long-
term (multi-year) field datasets of intertidal morphology and offshore bathymetry. Utilising a …
term (multi-year) field datasets of intertidal morphology and offshore bathymetry. Utilising a …
Dynamics of rip currents associated with groynes—field measurements, modelling and implications for beach safety
Rip currents can occur around groynes and other coastal structures (eg breakwaters and
geological headlands), which provide a boundary to the wave-induced flow field and …
geological headlands), which provide a boundary to the wave-induced flow field and …
The influence of seasonal to interannual nearshore profile variability on extreme water levels: Modeling wave runup on dissipative beaches
N Cohn, P Ruggiero - Coastal Engineering, 2016 - Elsevier
Wave runup, an important contributor to storm-induced extreme water levels, is commonly
predicted via empirical formulations that parameterize coastal morphology using simple …
predicted via empirical formulations that parameterize coastal morphology using simple …
Video-based nearshore bathymetry estimation in macro-tidal environments
Video-based depth inversion through the linear dispersion relation for free surface waves
using the cross spectral correlation analysis, cBathy (Holman et al., 2013), is applied for the …
using the cross spectral correlation analysis, cBathy (Holman et al., 2013), is applied for the …
Controls on macrotidal rip current circulation and hazard
Rip currents are strong, narrow seaward-flowing currents in the surf zone and are common
on energetic sandy beaches. They are generally associated with distinct beach morphology …
on energetic sandy beaches. They are generally associated with distinct beach morphology …
Beach state recognition using argus imagery and convolutional neural networks
Nearshore morphology is a key driver in wave breaking and the resulting nearshore
circulation, recreational safety, and nutrient dispersion. Morphology persists within the …
circulation, recreational safety, and nutrient dispersion. Morphology persists within the …
Evaluation of swimmer-based rip current escape strategies
Rip currents are the primary hazard on surf beaches, and early studies described them as
fast, shore-normal flows that extended seaward of the surf zone. Based on this traditional …
fast, shore-normal flows that extended seaward of the surf zone. Based on this traditional …
Surf zone bathymetry and circulation predictions via data assimilation of remote sensing observations
GW Wilson, HT Özkan‐Haller… - Journal of …, 2014 - Wiley Online Library
Bathymetry is a major factor in determining nearshore and surf zone wave transformation
and currents, yet is often poorly known. This can lead to inaccuracy in numerical model …
and currents, yet is often poorly known. This can lead to inaccuracy in numerical model …
Grain‐size distributions on high‐energy sandy beaches and their relation to wave dissipation
Grain size and sorting represent two key parameters when characterizing sediments or
modelling beach morphology and sediment transport. Traditionally, an average value for …
modelling beach morphology and sediment transport. Traditionally, an average value for …