Rip currents are narrow and concentrated seaward-directed flows that extend from close to
the shoreline, through the surf zone, and varying distances beyond. Rip currents are …

Geomorphometry, the science of quantitative terrain characterization, has traditionally
focused on the investigation of terrestrial landscapes. However, the dramatic increase in the …

The lower shoreface provides the connection between the continental shelf and the
shoreline via its onshore transition called the upper shoreface. Lower shorefaces are …

This review focuses on recent advances in process-based numerical models of the impact of
extreme storms on sandy coasts. Driven by larger-scale models of meteorology and …

With high anthropogenic pressure and the effects of climate change (eg, sea level rise) on
coastal regions, there is a greater need for accurate and up-to-date information about the …

Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a
primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind …

Nearshore estimates of bathymetry are crucial for understanding coastal processes.
However, current passive remote sensing methods for estimating bathymetry require in situ …

Global shallow water bathymetry maps offer critical information to inform activities such as
scientific research, environment protection, and marine transportation. Methods that employ …

Coastal monitoring is a topic continuously developing, which has been applied using
different approaches to assess the meteo-marine features, for example, to contribute to the …

This paper details the collection, geo-referencing, and data processing algorithms for a fully-
automated, permanently deployed terrestrial lidar system for coastal monitoring. The lidar is …