Abstract The nonlocal Boussinesq equations (NLBEs) are investigated in this work. The
general forms of soliton solutions of the equations are firstly derived via Hirota bilinear …

In this work, we develop two new types of (1+ 1)-dimensional nonlocal Boussinesq
equations to represent more situations in complex water waves. By applying ansatz method …

We present the derivation of a nonlinear weakly dispersive formula to reconstruct, from
pressure measurements, the surface elevation of nonlinear waves propagating in shallow …

Equations relating the pressure at a horizontal seabed, the free-surface profile and the
surface pressure are derived for two-dimensional irrotational steady water waves with …

The Whitham equation is a nonlocal, nonlinear partial differential equation that models the
temporal evolution of spatial profiles of surface displacement of water waves. However …

Infragravity waves (IGWs) that have lower wave frequencies than short waves (SWs) can
cause significant impacts on coastal processes, such as beach erosion, when their …

The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by
propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the …

The role of various long-wave approximations in the description of the wave field and bottom
pressure caused by surface waves, and their relation to evolution equations are being …