Wave Setup over a Fringing Reef with Large Bottom Roughness in: Journal of Physical
Oceanography Volume 46 Issue 8 (2016) Jump to Content Jump to Main Navigation Logo Logo …

Wave‐driven water level variability (and runup at the shoreline) is a significant cause of
coastal flooding induced by storms. Wave runup is challenging to predict, particularly along …

We report field measurements of waves and currents made from September 2011 to July
2014 on Palmyra Atoll in the central Pacific that were used in conjunction with the SWAN …

The degradation of coastal ecosystems in recent years, combined with more intense storms
and greater sea levels associated with climate change, are likely to increase vulnerability to …

Abstract Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) models are gaining popularity recently in
efforts to understand the complex dynamics of wave interaction with coral reef profiles. To …

Sea level rise will have significant impacts on many coastal resources. Waves are an
important resource in California, where they support the recreation of 1.1 million surfers who …

Field observations over decades have found that the surface roughness of coral reefs is
typically one or two order of magnitude larger than that of sandy beaches. To better …

Wave-driven flow over the reef flat plays an essential role in shaping the morphology of coral
reefs, whose biological, ecological and geological processes are significantly affected by the …

Recent field observations have improved our understanding of the role of tidal currents in
modulating the wave dynamics over coral reefs. In this study, detailed flow measurements …

The understanding of physical processes over submerged reefs represents an important
ongoing research topic when considering wave energy dissipation and coastal protection …