This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of
the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent …

This paper, which is largely the fruit of an invited talk on the topic at the latest International
Conference on Coastal Engineering, describes the state of the art of modelling by means of …

A third‐generation numerical wave model to compute random, short‐crested waves in
coastal regions with shallow water and ambient currents (Simulating Waves Nearshore …

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of
wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands …

We present a high-order adaptive time-stepping TVD solver for the fully nonlinear
Boussinesq model of Chen (2006), extended to include moving reference level as in …

Parts I and II of this paper describe the extension and testing of two sets of Boussinesq-type
equations to include surf zone phenomena. Part I is restricted to 1D tests of shoaling …

The extended Boussinesq equations derived by Nwogu (1993) significantly improve the
linear dispersive properties of long-wave models in intermediate water depths, making it …

New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition) This book is
intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical …

A method for generating waves in Boussinesq-type wave models is described. The method
employs a source term added to the governing equations, either in the form of a mass …

This is the first of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In
this first paper, part I, the model is presented and its basic features are studied for the case of …